Hey all! War Council episode 14 is now live! This time we discuss Style Vs Technique as it pertains to painting. We also break down some time honored techniques. Plus, Phillip gives us his 2 cents on watercolor pencils and how you can use them to line/edge your models like a pro.
Greetings fellow wargamers! Caleb with White Metal Games here. This article deals with a collaborative project recently undertaken by my studio and another miniature painting service.
Behold the Necrorks!
The project began as a simple idea to build a looted ork army using a combination of Necron and Ork kits. It was a big project, and I knew I was going to need help to see it through.
As a hobbyist I’ve always had a soft spot for the Orks in the 40 K universe. The idea that Orks can loot anything has always appealed to me. I’d seen looted Necron vehicles before but never had I seen an entire army dedicated to the theme.
Most of you know the work of Thomas Reidy, a.k.a. ‘Goatboy’ from Full of Monkey painting. His style of art, dubbed ‘graffiti painting’ by some, is both unique and easy to spot on the table.
I had mentioned the idea of the project to Thomas and he was on board from the get-go. I have collaborated with other miniature painters before, but never on such a grand scale and for such a large project. Thomas and I discussed the project in detail before commencing.
We both knew what was expected of the other: I would build and kit bash the army combining a variety of kits and Thomas would handle the painting aspect. Since I’m not an active tournament player myself I asked Thomas for help in developing a semi competitive list that would also allow me plenty of opportunities for kit bashing madness.
Working together we came up with a list for the army and I added a fun sideboard that would allow the force to be used in games of Apocalypse as well as unbound armies. I knew the army could also be appealing to players who liked to compete, as it gave them a strong solid force, but also gave them an extensive list of options for substitution and trying out new winning combinations.
Since the army has been completed the new Necron Codex has sense come out again, and this allows players a variety of new options.
A few of my favorite units in the entire army have to be the Stoppa which can also count as a Tesseract Vault, as well as the 2nd Annihilation Barge, dubbed the ‘Tesserork’, to allow it to also count as a Tesseract Ark from Forgeworld. In addition the army features a Gauss pylon, as well as over 50 Ork Boyz!
From a collaborative standpoint the biggest challenge we actually faced was not artistic license, but rather life events. In the time since the army began Thomas welcomed a new son into the world. This blessed event delayed completion of the army but not by much as Thomas is a workhorse.
In addition both of us had regular clients to contend with, as we endeavored to keep our commissions flowing and our paint que low despite this large 4000+ point army on our workbenches.
The army is currently for sale on eBay, and I’m entertaining all best offers. This was a fantastic project to work on and I’m very excited about our next collaborative effort.
As mentioned before, unbound armies really allow the hobbyist to do what so ever they choose. I’ve had lots of ideas for new projects since beginning this one, the possibilities really are endless. Some of the ideas we discussed include a Werewolf themed Space wolf army, a true Genestealer Cult army featuring Astra Militarum and Tyranid forces, and a Kabuki themed Eldar army.
If you love his style of painting, be sure to check out more of Thomas’ great work at Full of Monkey Painting. You can also check out more of my fun kit bashing projects on my facebook page. The creative spark is something that is unique to every miniature painting service; no two painting services tackle a project exactly the same way. When you hire a miniature commission artist, you really are paying for their creative insight and that spark of inspiration.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into our creative outlet and I certainly hope you’ll share this project with all your friends. Be sure to check out the complete gallery for this project at the link below.
Until next time, put your minis where your mouth is!
Caleb Dillon White Metal Games
THE LIST: Over 4000 pts Necron (with Ork suggested ‘counts as’ choice)
HQ: Destroyer Lord, Sempiternal Weave, Mindshackle Scarabs (counts as Warboss on Bike) Necron Overlord, Sempiternal Weave, Mindshackle Scarabs (counts as Warboss)
Crypteks- Harbringer of the Storm, Despair,etc x3 (counts as Weirdboyz or Ork Boss, etc) Crypteks-Harbringer of Destruction x2 (counts as Mekboyz w/kustom mega blasta)
Troops and Transports: Necron Warriors x 30 (Count as Shoota Boyz) Ghost Arc x2 (count as trukks) Nightscythe x 3 (counts as Dakkajets)
Elites: Necron Immortals x 10 (Count as Lootas) Canoptek Stalker
Fast Attack: 6 x Wraiths (Ork Boarboyz, count as Bikers) 3x Tomb blades (count as Deff Koptas) 10x Scarab Swarms
Heavy: Annihilation Barge Tesseract Arc (count as Annihilation barge as needed) Destroyers x 5 (count as Bikers) Monolith (counts as Battle Wagon) 3x Tomb Spyders
Lords of War: Stompa (count as Tesseract Vault) Empowered C’tan Gauss Pylon
Greetings fellow wargamers! Caleb with White Metal Games here and I have a special kit bash article for you today.
I know Rob at Spikey Bitz is very proud of his custom Tower of Skulls. We’ve all seen it and to be fair it is amazing. However there’s more than one way to skin a cat, and they’re certainly more than one way to build a Tower of Skulls.
This project began a long time ago when the rules for this particular model were first released in the original edition of Apocalypse for Warhammer 40 K. I knew I wanted to build one of these bad boys, but I just wasn’t quite sure how to go about it. Normally when a project like this appeals to me I take a long time to consider the bits I want to use. Then slowly but surely I start the long process of acquiring said bits.
For this particular project I knew I wanted to start with the biggest tank I could find, and of course that would be the Baneblade. I picked one up on eBay for a steal. The trick was it was already pre-assembled for the most part so I knew I was gonna have to gut certain parts from the model.
For the tower I wanted something with plenty of skulls already in place and the Warhammer fantasy range had just the model I needed. Weight would not be an issue because of the overall weight of the Baneblade model. Next up I was going to need some cannons.
The Forgefiend kit comes with two great ectoplasm cannons. They don’t seem to be a preferred variation for that particular model, so there was plenty of them on eBay to spare. However I needed some other sort of multi-barreled cannons for the turrets. I wanted something that looked kind of old and derelict, so I went with used more than Organ Guns. They have four barrels a piece which is perfect for this particular model.
Mounting the guns required a bit of ingenuity,. For the Organ guns I mounted them above the side turrets.. This is pretty straight forward, but for the Forgefiends guns I wanted to mount them inside the tower coming through the parapets. For this I had to go inside the tower, already fully built. Although no one will ever be able to see it, there is actually a sort of wench mechanism inside the tower utilizing bits from Imperial guard Valkyrie. This allowed me to hold the guns in place. Then with a little glue and some putty I was able to hold them in place permanently to ensure that they would never shift around.
With all of my basic bits acquired I sit out to assemble the model. You can generally tell how it was assembled. The only place where I had to sort of blend the tower into the tank as you can see, I used some sculpting putty.. I went with the continuation of the stone facade, as this would blend nicely into the finished model once painted.
After all that was said and done with I went about sealing any gaps with said putty and sculpting on any small details that I needed. I used a variety of small bits lying around my bits box to ensure the model looked chaos enough, and didn’t betray it’s Imperial origins.
This model sold on my exclusive eBay store a few months ago for a fair price. Which was great for me, as I’m always looking for my next project to build and I always need money.
Even though GW is releasing new kids all the time, and granted they look better than ever before, there is always a need for someone out there that can build something from scratch, or better yet kit bash something really stretches the imagination.
Be sure to check out other great kit-bashes like this on our Facebook page. You could also check out our entire gallery at White Metal Games.
Until next time put your minis where your mouth is!
Each has their advantages, but a thought occured to me the other day . . . why not use metallics to represent distressed metal? I have all these pearlized paints from my early airbrushing days just sitting around . .. why not put them to good use!
So, here’s how this works:
Prime black, then basecoat with a gunmetal type color. I used Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal for this. Bear in mind when using metallic airbrush paints, the metal flakes will often clog the airbrush, so thin the mixture down slightly and be sure to clean the airbrush well after use to avoid any dried metallic flake left over in any component of the airbrush.
Next lay down a warm metallic color. I used Vallejo Model Air Rust, because it’s a warm copper like metal color. I think gold or copper would be fine, depending on the effect you are going for, but I’m really digging VMA Rust at the moment! Just be sure to leave some of the original gunmetal color showing, since you want to indicate where the heat effect begins!
Next, lay down some Red Metallic. I used Createx Pearlized Red. It’s a bright bold, red! Createx makes some great airbrush paints, and why they aren’t used by the wargaming community more is a mystery to me.
As before, be sure to leave some of the underlying color shining through. Airbrushes are great for blending, since the outer edges of the spray cone are by default a thinner spray that your targeted area. So just go light on the end and you should be fine.
Next, apply some Purple Metallic. I used Createx Pearlized Purple (seeing a trend here yet). The purple blends really reall with the red from the next step, and being a natural color progression from red to blue, you’ll see how easily this blends in the next step.
Finally, apply some Blue Metallic. Guess what I used? Createx Pearlized Blue. 10 points if you guessed it. In the background you can see a heated metal picture of a car engine I used as a reference point for this tutorial. To see an actual example of this effect in action, see the pictures below.
Breaking up gun barrels with a slight heat effect is a wonderful way to add a little color to a normally otherwise dull part of most models. Imagine Tanks and Cannons with heat distressed barrels trundling around the battlefield. This is an easy way to distinguish your favorite vehicles without spending a great deal of time or energy on the project.
If you found this tutorial at all useful, be sure to Like Us on Facebook! It really does help!
PS: No sooner had I finished this tutorial then I came across this incredible video tutorial by Savage Forge Minis. His tutorial is slightly different than mind, including the good idea to add some soot to the weapon tip. I guess great minds think alike. Way to go guys! Be sure to check out all their fabulous video tutorials while you are watching the above vid.
Until next time, put your Minis Where Your Mouth Is!
Welcome to Conversion Corner, where we display great looking converted and Work In Progress (WIP) models from stuff we’ve done or amazing figures we’ve seen around.
If you click on the Conversion Corner label you’ll be able to scroll through some great looking conversions and more, all at once.
Checkout this Abaddon the Despoiler on Iron Throne by White Metal Games. The model was painted by John Elbro, one of White Metals resident painters. -Enjoy MBG
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